MYNORTHWEST NEWS

Seattle Chef Renee Erickson’s ‘simple’ formula making big impact

Feb 25, 2013, 11:27 AM | Updated: 3:26 pm

Renee Erickson’s The Whale Wins was listed among semifinalists in the James Beard Awards 2013...

Renee Erickson's The Whale Wins was listed among semifinalists in the James Beard Awards 2013 list for Best New Restaurant. (Image courtesy The Whale Wins)

(Image courtesy The Whale Wins)

It’s been a big couple weeks for Seattle chef Renee Erickson. First, her Ballard oyster bar The Walrus and the Carpenter was named on Bon Apetit Magazine’s list of the “20 Most Important Restaurants.” Then, the chef and another one of her restaurants were honored as award contenders for this year’s prestigious James Beard Awards.

“It’s been kind of crazy. We’re real excited and a little bit blown away by it all,” Erickson tells KIRO Radio’s Let’s Eat.

All this high-level recognition wasn’t the goal, says Erickson. Speaking of The Walrus and the Carpenter, she says her intention was just to create a simple environment, where a person could enjoy the best oysters in the world.

“I think we succeeded really well, how it’s been received is greater than I could have ever imagined.”

One of Erickson’s strongest tenets seemingly is “simplicity” with several of her restaurants’ descriptions mentioning food prepared simply.

The Whale Wins’ wood-fired, vegetable focused menu will feature the very best foods from local beaches, gardens and farms prepared simply and served casually in a lively, light filled, cottage-like space,” says its website. The description of the Walrus and the Carpenter also talks about “casual comfort.” And at Boat Street Cafe, “You’ll eat simple, sturdy, luscious food-the food of French grandmothers made.”

But the Bon Apetit writer responsible for naming The Walrus and the Carpenter as one of the “20 Most Important Restaurants” says the restaurants on the list also show a type of fearlessness, “spots that drive chefs to innovate, restaurateurs to imitate, and the rest of us to line up.”

While maintaining a casual atmosphere, Erickson also challenges diners with preparations and serving methods that are not necessarily conventional. Several dishes at The Whale Wins are served at room temperature, something not all are used to, but that Erickson says helps the food.

“I think it does throw some people for sure,” says Erickson. But she says without high heat or cold, you’re able to taste more. “It was a conscious decision to make the dishes that we have at room temperature that way […] They’re better that way.”

Another style not as conventional is offering food served to share.

“The sharing of things – it’s funny you do it all the time at home, you just don’t do it in restaurants,” says Erickson. In her experience though, she’s observed a friendly kind of caring and talking as a result of this serving method. A big part of the praise for her restaurants is the neighborhood feel.

One thing that is clear, is that whatever she’s doing, it seems to be working.

“It keeps getting busier,” says Erickson, who marvels at how her staff manages to serve 200 a night in a space with 40 seats at The Walrus and the Carpenter, “so far so good.”

Let’s Eat can be heard on KIRO Radio at 4 p.m. on Saturday. Available anytime ON DEMAND at KIRORadio.com.

MyNorthwest News

Photo: On Monday, Mayor Bruce Harrell announced there will be 16 new preschool classrooms across Se...

Julia Dallas

Harrell’s office announces Seattle preschool slots for thousands of kids

Thousands more families will have the chance to start their children's Seattle preschool education earlier, thanks to a program launching.

4 hours ago

Digital...

Micki Gamez

How parents can help prevent children from falling victim to online sex crimes

Chances are, if your teen has a cell phone or tablet, they either know someone or they have been the victim of an online sex crime because kids as young as seven are online more than ever. My interest in this story began almost the same time last year when my daughter came home and […]

8 hours ago

Pierce County Jail...

Bill Kaczaraba

Pierce County Corrections chief at odds with the employee guild

The Corrections Bureau's Guild has issued Patti Jackson a vote of 'no confidence,' as reported by The Tacoma News Tribune.

10 hours ago

Image: A Seattle Police Department vehicle seen during the day...

Sam Campbell

Security guard stabbed, suspect barricades inside Beacon Hill apartment

SWAT officers surrounded a complex in Seattle's Beacon Hill neighborhood after police said a man stabbed a guard barricaded himself inside.

11 hours ago

seattle indecent exposure...

Frank Sumrall

Seattle man arrested for 14 counts of indecent exposure, most near schools

A 34-year-old man was arrested by Seattle police (SPD) in connection to 14 counts of indecent exposure near Lake Forest Park.

12 hours ago

Federal Way shootings...

Bill Kaczaraba

Federal Way Police say two shootings are related

Police believe two shootings in Federal Way are related.

14 hours ago

Seattle Chef Renee Erickson’s ‘simple’ formula making big impact