Golden Getaway

I love the Canadian Rockies and, like most folks who have experienced outdoors pursuits in this magnificent corner of the world, I’ve spent time in Alberta’s Banff National Park. But on my last trip to the region, I did the unthinkable. I drove right through Banff, no-stops, no regrets. I was in the Rockies to experience far lesser-known Golden, British Columbia, located just 50 miles west from Banff’s world-famous Lake Louise. While the scenery’s just as breathtaking, when it comes to pace, vibe and overall atmosphere, the two locales couldn’t be further apart.

Established primarily as a railroad and timber hub in the late 1800s, Golden sits on the banks of the Northwest’s mightiest river, the Columbia, within the massive Rocky Mountain Trench. Flanked by the Rockies to the east and the Columbia Mountains to the west, Golden is located within a short driving distance to six national parks: Mount Revelstoke, Glacier, Kootenay, Yoho, Banff and Jasper. But it wasn’t until the development of the Kicking Horse Mountain Resort ski area in 2000 that Golden began its transformation into a topnotch outdoor recreation destination. And one resonating with travelers like me who desire accessible outdoor recreation, good accommodations and a thriving community—but without crowds and hype. With just over 4,000 residents Golden feels homey and welcoming—yet has a full array of accommodations, services, attractions and enough trails to keep me hiking and running into my final sunset.

What initially lured me to visit was the Golden Ultra, a highly acclaimed three-day, staged ultra-marathon event (see below). I signed up and quickly realized Golden has a lot more to offer leading me to extend my stay. I set up base at a mountainside condo at Kicking Horse Mountain high above the city. Busy in winter, it’s pretty quiet off ski season and a great place for families, hikers and mountain bikers desiring to be close to Kicking Horse’s amazing trail network. My condo, managed by LUSH Mountain Accommodations was cozy and quiet, complete with deck and hot tub. Soaking while staring at a sea of summits fading into a dark canvas speckled with an infinity of sparkling tiny lights became my evening ritual. And I loved the 8-mile drive to and from town where seeing a bear was always a possibility (and I did, twice).

A Kicking Horse Mountain highlight is visiting its resident grizzly bear—Boo. Rescued as an orphan, Boo lives in the Grizzly Bear Interpretive Centre, a 20-acre natural setting on the mountain. Getting there via the scenic Catamount chairlift is as exciting as seeing the 900-pound griz. After meeting with a ranger at an informational yurt—it’s off to see Boo. Guided tours and Up-Close Encounters are available. I did the latter, and had, dare I say, a bonding experience with a big, beautiful bear.

Kicking Horse’s Golden Eagle Express gondola travels above the refuge. Ride it to access ridgeline hiking trails or thrilling downhill bike trails and you just might also catch a glimpse of Boo. And non-captive grizzlies do roam the mountains surrounding Golden, so always be bear aware when hiking and biking in the area’s backcountry. Wolves roam these mountains too, but you can get an up-close-and-personal view of these intelligent animals at the Northern Lights Wildlife Wolf Centre. Home to six wolves, the family-friendly centre is dedicated to wolf conservation and education; and offers special photography sessions and wolf walks. I enjoyed seeing the wolves and attending informative talks.

While the Golden Ultra was thrilling, I decided a few more thrills (particularly ones not as physically demanding) were in order. So, I spent a half day at the Golden Skybridge, home to two of Canada’s highest suspension bridges. I’ve been to Vancouver’s Capilano Bridge which blew me away. But the Golden Skybridges spanning 492 and 459 feet across a wide canyon and the longer one dangling 426 feet above the canyon floor literally took my breath away. I shared the sky with soaring ravens and savored stunning views of the Columbia Mountains. The Skybridges are part of a larger Adventure Park where I treated myself to a couple of exhilarating rides on the Railrider Mountain Coaster. I considered the zipline across the canyon—next visit for sure. And the giant swing over the canyon? Nope—lost my stomach just watching it!

When I wasn’t hiking, running, hanging out with megafauna, or touching the sky, I was sauntering the mellow streets and trails of the compact city. Of course I walked across Golden’s iconic Kicking Horse Covered Bridge, the longest free standing timber frame bridge in Canada. It’s part of the city’s trail system connecting to a level accessible trail following the Kicking Horse River to its confluence with the Columbia River. My in-town walks always included a stop for coffee or a bite to eat. I really liked the Ethos Café for its fare and European flair. And Golden doesn’t lack for Asian, European and fusion eateries offering healthy, hardy and locally sourced ingredients.

And while Golden makes a great base for visiting nearby national parks, this visit wasn’t about the parks. But I couldn’t leave without spending at least one day hiking in one of these jewels. So, I headed to Yoho, a 324,000-acre wonderland, home to Canada’s second highest waterfall, glacial-capped peaks, and some of the most spectacular backcountry lakes in North America. I opted for a leisurely 4-mile hike around Emerald Lake marveling at its jaw-dropping mountainous backdrop reflecting in its turquoise waters.

A return Golden Getaway is definitely in order. And it may just be in winter to ski some of that incredible terrain I spent three days running on!

Plan your Golden getaway at tourismgolden.com.

The Golden Ultra: Blood, sweat, tears, beers and cheers!

When it comes to trails, Golden shines. Its extensive network ranges from gentle urban paths along the Kicking Horse River to grueling backcountry routes to alpine meadows and knife-edge ridges. Local ultra-runner Magi Scallion designed the Golden Ultra, a three-day staged challenging run to showcase them. Now in its 10th year and directed by TransRockies racing, it’s one of the city’s biggest events.

Participants choose between two divisions, Full or Half Pint, each with three stages themed Blood, Sweat and Tears. For the Full, stage one entails a 2.9-mile run straight up Kicking Horse Mountain gaining 3,500 feet of elevation. Stage two is a 60K (37 mile) run with 8,000 feet of elevation gain from town up to and along craggy Kicking Horse Mountain and back to town. Stage three’s a “fast” 10-mile race on flowy mountain bike trails with 1,700 feet of elevation gain. The Half Pint’s stages are considerably easier (but not easy) with half the distance and elevation gain.

I ran the event in 2025 joining more than 700 participants from all over Canada, the US, Australia, the UK and other countries. Most opted for the Half Pint. Just 127 of us, including me, completed the Full Pint! It was one of the hardest ultras I’ve run. But the sweeping views along Kicking Horse Mountain of cloud-piercing peaks crowding the horizons along with enthusiastic volunteers kept me stoked. At the end of each stage were cold beers—including from local standout Whitetooth Brewery—to fill our finisher pint glasses. Then we all enjoyed a delicious catered dinner together.

Spirit Square near the iconic covered bridge downtown served as race headquarters. With strong community support, locals came down to cheer us on. Some even took the gondola up to Eagle’s Eye to cheer for us at the 7,700-foot summit. And over three days you start recognizing people on the course and in town leading to golden opportunities for new friendships.