Out of the Shadow of Yellowstone: Grand Teton National Park

There is little debate of Yellowstone’s dominance within the national park system. Established in 1872, Yellowstone is America’s first national park and one of the largest in the lower 48 states covering 2.2 million acres across northwest Wyoming and small slivers of Montana and Idaho. Each year, over 4.5 million visitors to Yellowstone are treated to a host of natural wonders from sightings of the mighty grizzly bear to eruptions of the iconic Old Faithful geyser. But when I want to stand in the shadow of majestic mountains, delight in watching a menagerie of megafauna, and hike until my thighs turn to jelly, I head to Yellowstone’s smaller yet equally stunning neighbor, Grand Teton National Park.

Grand Teton National Park sits in Wyoming between Yellowstone’s southern border and the resort town of Jackson. It is a fraction of the size of Yellowstone at just 310,000 acres dominated by the jagged peaks of the Teton Range above and the Snake River below, cutting through fields of sagebrush where bison, elk and moose linger.

Annual visitation here clocks in around 3.5 million. That might sound crowded at first, but the majority of these visitors are only seeing Grand Teton through their car windows rarely exploring beyond Teton Park Road and US 191 that runs the length of the park’s narrow map. While I enjoy spending time on any visit driving these scenic roads looking for wildlife and filling my camera with amazing images, it is the host of activities and wonders in Grand Teton that keeps me coming back.

Hiking is my favorite of these activities. With over 250 miles of trail in the park, it can be hard to choose where to go. One hike always on my itinerary is the Swan Lake Loop Trail, a relatively flat 3-mile trail that begins at the edge of Colter Bay Village along the shores of Jackson Lake.

Pull into one of the many parking spots in the village then pick up provisions for the hike in the expansive general store before hitting the trail. Take your time meandering through the peaceful forest catching glimpses of the lake through the trees before turning inland toward Heron Pond where bright green lily pads float atop the calm water and osprey hunt from above. Follow the trail farther inland to Swan Lake before looping back to Colter Bay.

For a guaranteed crowd-free hike, I head to the remote western section of the park along the winding dirt Pacific Creek Road, then north to Two Ocean Lake Trail where I always seem to find a spot in the tiny lot. Water bottle full and bear spray within reach, I circle the long skinny lake for 6.4 miles and 700 feet of elevation gain through fields choked with wildflowers while taking in stellar views of Grand Teton, the highest peak in the park at 13,775 feet.

You can avoid crowds on most trails by getting an early start. Plus, it is always prudent to finish your hike before the heat of the day. Ranger-led hikes are another great way to get to know the park on a deep level. Find the current schedule on the back page of the park’s newsletter or in any of the visitor centers.

Wildlife watching is another favorite activity of mine in Grand Teton. It may not have the acreage of Yellowstone to support large populations of animals, but the smaller park still offers amazing opportunities for wildlife watching if you know where and when to look.

I spend at least one evening every visit driving Moose-Wilson Road which veers off from US 191 in the southern part of the park at the Moose Entrance hoping to see black bears and the occasional grizzly bear munch on berries and the leaves of aspen trees that crowd the road. Evenings are also a great time to look for bull moose negotiating their massive antlers through willows lining the Gros Ventre River as the sun sets behind the Tetons.

In the mornings I head for the Oxbow Bend Turnout along the Snake River just west of Jackson Lake Lodge. Bring a camp chair to sit and watch swans and white pelicans float through the mist and beavers and otters go about their morning routines.

Safety is paramount for both you and the animals on any wildlife watching excursion. Follow park guidelines on keeping safe distances from all animals and be mindful of other people and vehicles around you.

Bodies of water are key features in Grand Teton ranging from Jackson Lake that dominates the map in the north to small backcountry lakes and streams at the base of the mountains. Opportunities abound for those wanting to see the park from this unique angle. Rent a kayak or canoe at Jenny Lake Boating and float the calm waters between Jenny and String Lakes or book a seat on the Jackson Lake Scenic Dinner Cruise for good food and great scenery.

One item recently checked off my personal bucket list was a rafting trip down the Snake River with Grand Teton Lodge Company. On a cloudless cool morning, my fellow rafters and I boarded the van and took the short drive to our put-in at Deadmans Bar Road. The name invoked slight trepidation for my coming adventure until our affable guide put my mind at ease explaining that there was little chance anyone would get wet in the rapid-free river of late summer.

After donning a life jacket and securing my spot on our wide raft, which reminded me of an inflatable kiddie pool, we pushed off from the rocky shore and the thrill of being on the clear river quickly kicked in. Our guide did all the work deftly maneuvering the raft for 10 miles down the Snake. All I had to do was breathe in the crisp air and turn my gaze upward to the snow-capped Tetons.

To plan your adventures in Grand Teton National Park, visit nps.gov/grte. Learn more about visiting Wyoming at travelwyoming.com.