RACHEL BELLE

Why there are so many Thai restaurants in Seattle

Jul 16, 2019, 1:58 PM | Updated: 2:52 pm
Seattle Thai restaurants...
A chef at Thai Tom Restaurant in Seattle. (Closari, Flickr Creative Commons)

When I first moved to Seattle in 2005, I went on a Thai food bender. There seemed to be a Thai restaurant on every corner and the food is delicious and, often, cheap.

On the latest episode of my podcast, Your Last Meal, my guest, actor Lauren Weedman, wondered why there are so many Thai restaurants in Seattle. I went on a mission to find the answer.

Seattle start-up brings plant-based chicken nuggets to cafeterias

In 2014, I produced a story about why there are so many pho restaurants in Seattle and the answer is pretty straightforward: In 1974, when six thousand Vietnamese immigrants were being held at Camp Pendleton in San Diego, Governor Dan Evans invited them to live in Washington.

“I was listening to the radio and I heard Governor Jerry Brown of California say he didn’t want any Vietnamese there,” Evans told me. “I was just furious. We sent a young aide in my office to Camp Pendleton and he called me back and said, ‘Governor, you’d be amazed at the kind of people who are here. They’re professionals, all sorts of very talented people.’ I said, ‘Invite them to come settle in Washington state.”

Washington now has the third largest Vietnamese population in the country.

I assumed the number of Thai restaurants in Seattle would be relevant to the number of Thai immigrants who landed here, but that’s simply not true. According to the Washington Hospitality Association there are 110 Thai restaurants in Seattle but only 1,217 Thai immigrants. That’s roughly one Thai restaurant for every 11 Thai people living here.

So what’s the story? Turns out, it was a plan cooked up by the Thai government. It doesn’t just affect Seattle, but countries all over the world. In 2001, the Thai government embarked on an economic development plan called “Thai Kitchen To The World” to ramp up tourism and popularize Thai exports. Maybe if more foreigners tasted pad Thai, they’d want to fly to Thailand for a vacation? According to Vice, the concept is called gastrodiplomacy.

“The idea was really to train Thai people to become chefs and to export them to different parts of the world so they could open up restaurants and introduce people around the world to Thai food,” said Mark Padoongpatt, assistant professor of Asian American studies at University of Nevada Las Vegas and author of Flavors of Empire: Food and The Making of Thai America.

Their goal was to open 3,000 new Thai restaurants around the world. Vice reports that a Thai bank offered loans to Thai nationals interested in opening a restaurants abroad. The Public Health Ministry even published a book in 2002 called A Manual for Thai Chefs Going Abroad. The government also created a few prototypes for Thai restaurants; turnkey, prefab restaurant plans complete with restaurant designs and standardized menus based on different price points so investors could simply choose a plan and set up shop.

“I think it’s absolutely correct that the Thai government played a key role in promoting and increasing the number of Thai restaurants around the world. But there are two issues I have with that,” said Padoongpatt. “One is, the story actually begins much earlier. In LA, by the 1970s and 80s, you have over 50 Thai restaurants in west LA. And that has nothing to do with the Thai government, this is 30 years before.”

Not going to eat that? Give it to your neighbor with food sharing app

“So I think it’s important for me to say that because Thai people aren’t robots, right?” he continued. “They’re immigrants and they struggled and they’ve learned to be really savvy about the American palate. I think that deserves recognition for their work to open up these Thai restaurants long before the government got involved. And in fact, that’s why the government got involved. Thai immigrants in the United States in the 70s and 80s were the ones who popularized the cuisine so much, the Thai government was like, ‘Hey, there’s this growing popularity. We can benefit from this.'”

This wasn’t the first time the Thai government has gotten involved in Thai food. It actually invented pad Thai.

“So it’s not this traditional, authentic, going back hundreds of years [dish]. It was actually created in the 1930s in Thailand by Phibunsongkhram, who was the prime minister at the time. The dish was created because Thailand was focused on nation building. So he created this dish using Chinese noodles and called it pad Thai as a way to galvanize nationalism.”

According to sources, the government’s plan to popularize Thai food and increase tourism worked. There are triple the number of Thai restaurants around the world since 2001 and more than double the number in the United States. But it’s hard to say if these restauranteurs followed the government’s plan or struck out on their own.

To learn more about the history of pad Thai, which is actor Lauren Weedman’s last meal, listen to the full episode of Your Last Meal.

  • listen to rachel belleTune in to KIRO Radio on weekdays to hear Rachel Belle.
Who is Rachel Belle?

Your Last Meal

Rachel Belle

Teenager toxic masculinity...
Rachel Belle

This teenage boy wants to help your teen be vulnerable and fight toxic masculinity

15-year-old Zach Gottlieb started an Instagram and TikTok page for teens to submit questions on topics like anxiety, breakups, and more.
12 days ago
Lab grown salmon...
Rachel Belle

Seattle CEO prepares to bring lab-grown salmon to sushi bars, grocery stores

The next generation of sustainable, environmentally sound proteins will come from actual meat and fish. Wildtype is growing cuts of Coho salmon using salmon cells.
1 month ago
menopause...
Rachel Belle

No one is talking about menopause, not even your doctor

Let's Talk Menopause founder Donna Klassen says most women don't know the symptoms and most medical schools don't include menopause in the curriculum. 
2 months ago
Nadiya Hussain...
Rachel Belle

New ‘Your Last Meal’: British Bake Off winner, Spice Waala brings Indian street food to Seattle

As a child, Great British Bake Off winner Nadiya Hussain, felt frustrated that her dad served watered down, westernized Indian food at his restaurants.
2 months ago
Toxic positivity...
Rachel Belle

Seattle psychotherapist on how to cope with ‘season of toxic positivity’

Telling your loved ones to look on the bright side when they're feeling down is toxic positivity, and no one likes to hear it. Not even you.
2 months ago
birthday cake...
Rachel Belle

‘Your Last Meal’ podcast explores history of why we eat cake and light candles for birthdays

We all eat birthday cake, but have you ever wondered why? Award-winning chef Christina Tosi dives in on the latest episode of "Your Last Meal."
2 months ago

Sponsored Articles

...

Compassion International Is Determined to ‘Fill’ a Unique Type of Football ‘Stadium’

Compassion International SPONSORED — During this fall’s football season—and as the pandemic continues to impact the entire globe—one organization has been urging caring individuals to help it “fill” a unique type of “stadium” in order to make a lasting difference in the lives of many. Compassion International’s distinctive Fill the Stadium (FtS, fillthestadium.com) initiative provides […]
...

What are the Strongest, Greenest, Best Windows?

Lake Washington Windows & Doors SPONSORED — Fiberglass windows are an excellent choice for window replacement due to their fundamental strength and durability. There is no other type of window that lasts as long as fiberglass; so why go with anything else? Fiberglass windows are 8x stronger than vinyl, lower maintenance than wood, more thermally […]
...

COVID Vaccine is a Game-Changer for Keeping our Kids Healthy

Snohomish Health District SPONSORED — Cheers to the parents and guardians who keep their kids safe and healthy. The dad who cooks a meal with something green in it, even though he’s tired and drive-thru burgers were tempting. The mom who calms down the little one who loudly and resolutely does NOT want to brush […]
...
Experience Anacortes

Coastal Christmas Celebration Week in Anacortes

With minimal travel time required and every activity under the sun, Anacortes is the perfect vacation spot for all ages.
...

Delayed-Onset PTSD: Signs and Symptoms

Lakeside-Milam Recovery Centers SPONSORED — You’re probably familiar with post-traumatic stress disorder. Often abbreviated as PTSD, this condition is diagnosed when a person experiences a set of symptoms for at least a month after a traumatic event. However, for some people, these issues take longer to develop. This results in a diagnosis of delayed-onset PTSD […]
...

Medicare open enrollment ends Dec. 7. Free unbiased help is here!

Washington State Office of the Insurance Commissioner SPONSORED — Medicare’s Open Enrollment Period, also called the Annual Election Period, is Oct. 15 to Dec. 7. During this time, people enrolled in Medicare can: Switch from Original Medicare to a Medicare Advantage plan and vice versa. Join, drop or switch a Part D prescription drug plan, […]
Why there are so many Thai restaurants in Seattle