Seattle-area connoisseurs brewing coffee’s next wave

As you stop at your favorite cafe or brew up a fresh pot of coffee, there is no shortage of choices in beans and the ways to make it.

Just when you thought we’d seen it all, coffee lovers continue finding new ways to improve upon Seattle and the world’s oldest and most popular drink as the so-called “third-wave” keeps evolving.

The first wave was mass-produced coffees like Maxwell House and Folgers. It was followed in the 70s by the birth of espresso culture, thanks to companies like Peet’s and Starbucks, and fueled by the guy who brought the first espresso machines from Italy to Seattle.

The third wave treats coffee as a true art and craft – much like wine or beer.

“Every aspect of making coffee, we really want to understand and practice how all the variables mesh together to make a great cup coffee,” said Jill Killen, a self-avowed coffee geek and owner of three cafes in Seattle: Cloud City, El Diablo, and Royal Drummer.

It all starts with the beans. Like wine, the part of the world, elevation, soil type, exposure all play a major role.  So-called tiny or micro batches are a huge focus – something everyone from the smallest roasters and cafes to Starbucks are all emphasizing.

You can get single-origin — one bean from one source — or a carefully curated blend, such as a bag of fine Colombian that Killen had me try from several sources. The flavors and aromas that emerge from the brew evoke fruit, flowers, and other surprisingly powerful flavors. It’s far from some nebulous batch of Juan Valdez branded coffee.

“So there are five different coffees in the bag, all blended perfectly together. It’s true craftsmanship,” Killen said.

Then there’s the grind.  Killen can get pretty geeky about it, but suffice it to say, she says most important is grinding the beans just before you brew for the best flavor.

Speaking of flavor, one of the most critical components is the water.

“It’s super important you don’t use water right out of the tap because it has chlorine and flouride in it.  You want to get that stuff out,” she said. “Our holy grail is to try to create the perfect water in the shop to make the coffee taste better.”

For your house, Killen says a simple filter like a Brita or one for your tap, or bottled spring water can make a huge difference regardless of how you make it.

The method also matters. There are so many different ways to make a cup of coffee, from espresso machines to cold brew, pour over to press pot.

So how do you know which method you like best if you haven’t tried them all?  At places like Royal Drummer in Ballard, they encourage you to try them all.

“If you don’t like a lot of acidity in your coffee, then cold brew is a great option. If you like a coffee and you want to taste all of the flavors of a single origin bean, we might talk about pourover,” she said.

If you’re going to put your coffee in milk of some sort, then absolutely let’s get you a coffee roasted properly for espresso. And don’t be intimidated by some snobby barista. You won’t find that at Killen’s cafes.

“It is not my job to judge what you order. It’s my job to make what you want,” she said.

So what’s next?  Killen says coffee’s next wave will involve far more science, whether in improving water or grinds. Improving sustainability and other agricultural practices in coffee growing regions is another ongoing emphasis.

Killen also predicts a significant increase in the use of automation.

“A lot of baristas are afraid of that, but I think it creates the opportunity to free them up, to share their passion and knowledge, and educate customers more about coffee,” she said.

Regardless of how geeky you want to get.

“We just want you to enjoy your coffee,” she said.

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