From busboy to Canlis’ executive chef: Discover the story behind James Huffman

Canlis, the 75-year-old fine-dining Seattle restaurant, has a new executive chef, James Huffman—the first Seattle native to assume the role in history.

Huffman discussed his journey from high school to culinary school on “Seattle’s Morning News” on KIRO Newsradio with Charlie Harger and Manda Factor. He also shared how his years working in local restaurants developed a skill set that led to being Canlis’s first Seattle-born executive chef.

James Huffman’s journey toward Canlis

“In high school, I started working in restaurants. At the time, while I was in high school, I didn’t know that I wanted to adventure into being a chef, or working in kitchens,” Huffman said. “Shortly after I graduated from high school, my love for the restaurant industry blossomed.”

Huffman noted he met his wife in high school, who is Filipino, and was blown away by the taste of Filipino cuisine

“I thought about cooking as a living, and I went to culinary school probably six months after I graduated high school,” Huffman said. “I didn’t look back; it was something that came very naturally to me, and I wanted to pursue it as a career.”

In his early years, Huffman began his food service career working as a busboy at Lake Forest Bar and Grill before he strived to become a chef.

“I started working at some pretty reputable restaurants early on, one of them being Purple Wine Bar and Cafe,” Huffman said. “After a year working there, I worked at a restaurant called Cafe Juanita that’s also in Kirkland, and then, eventually, the next step for me felt like going to Canlis, and that was roughly nine years ago.”

Huffman has been with Canlis for nearly a decade, initially starting as a cook before working as executive sous chef, and now, the eighth executive chef in the restaurant’s history, selected from 72 possible candidates for the job.

How Huffman built his top-tier skills

“What lessons did you learn back in the early days at each restaurant that you keep with you now at Canlis?” Manda asked.

“The culture at Purple was that you just worked super hard. I was surrounded by people who were extremely talented and fast-paced,” Huffman said. “I was 19 years old, working in a kitchen around a bunch of adults, I got a great sense for the urgency, pacing, and how to generally be a very hard worker.”

Huffman cited the restaurant’s diverse, flavorful offerings as a contributor to building out his own understanding of crafting unique menu items.

“I got a sense for building flavor profiles at Purple. They had a ton of classic yummy food, and with Cafe Juanita, that’s where I learned what it was like to work in a fine dining space, using old school techniques with elegance and refinement,” Huffman said.

Huffman has already changed almost 90% of the Canlis menu, leaning into seasonal food. The spring dishes Huffman was adding to the menu as the interim executive chef were a significant factor in Canlis’ decision to appoint him to the position permanently.

“At Cafe Juanita, I learned how to use my knife really, really well,” Huffman said. “The amount of knife work we had to do in that restaurant was pretty intimidating, but there’s only one good way to build that skill, and it’s to practice over and over again.”

Canlis offers a multi-course dining experience that includes king salmon, American wagyu beef, and a citrus parfait, among other surprises.

“When I got to Canlis, I felt very confident in my abilities to learn and grow with modern fine dining techniques, while also learning how to be a respectful professional and person,” Huffman said.

Huffman’s internal promotion is a significant achievement. Canlis usually hires chefs from outside the city, acquiring big names with Michelin-starred backgrounds.

“Something Canlis has been doing for a long time is supporting local producers and farmers, making sure that we’re honoring the product they produce by cooking it and making it delicious, while also making sure things don’t go to waste,” Huffman said.

Huffman aims to create a welcoming atmosphere for guests.

“We at Canlis want to always invite people to trust us and our hospitality, and let us take the lead,” Huffman said. “Hopefully, it’s the best experience that we can offer, and it aligns with what people are looking for.”

Canlis has now received 22 consecutive Wine Spectator Grand Awards, has been nominated for 15 James Beard Awards, and has won three of them.

Listen to the full conversation below.

Listen to “Seattle’s Morning News” with Charlie Harger and Manda Factor weekday mornings from 5-9 a.m. on KIRO Newsradio. Subscribe to the podcast here.